Phelps Lake

Posted by Jim Steele on June 18th, 2009 filed in Grand Teton National Park
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Phelps Lake is a gorgeous lake - the sixth largest in Grand Teton National Park - and is set right at the base of the Teton Range, left behind by the glacier that formed Death Canyon. It offers lots of options for someone who is looking to get outside - and the choices got even better in late 2007 with the opening of the Laurance S. Rockefeller Preserve.

            Mr. Rockefeller, through his famous family, owned the JY Ranch, which was set at the south end of Phelps Lake and included much of the shoreline. The heart of the ranch was donated to Grand Teton National Park in 2001. In 2007, the Laurance S. Rockefeller Preserve opened with an extensive trail system in place, finally giving everyone access to the entirety of Phelps Lake.

            As part of the terms of the donation, Mr. Rockefeller wanted the former JY Ranch to be a place where people could develop a deeper connection with the land. The new trail system was developed with that goal in mind - there are places to walk right up to a small waterfall, walk through a wetland, and sit on benches on a bridge over Lake Creek, Phelps’ outlet. Pamphlets note that the primary trail starts in the sagebrush zone, passes through forests, and then comes to the lake, with some wetland trails also available. If you’ve got guests in town that want to get a sense of what the Tetons are all about, without, for example, hiking up the Middle Teton, this would be an excellent place to start.

            Mr. Rockefeller’s gift was exceptionally generous - I’ve hiked around Phelps Lake many times and enjoyed every trip. At the same time that I note his contribution, I also want to thank John D. Rockefeller Jr., who was responsible for the formation of Grand Teton National Park. The entire park could be called the John D. Rockefeller Jr. Preserve.

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(Note: The Google map above does not show the LSR trails.)

            Phelps Lake sits at 6,633 feet above sea level, so the elevation gain to the lake is modest. There are two main access points: first, via the LSR Preserve trailhead, which is north of Teton Village. Drive up Highway 390 through Teton Village, pass the Granite Canyon Entrance Station, and pass the Granite Canyon Trailhead; the LSR Preserve will be on your right and is well marked. Park in the modest parking lot and follow the short trail to the visitor center. You can also drive south from Moose along the Moose-Wilson Road.

            Second, there is a trailhead at the end of the Whitegrass Ranch Road. This road junctions with the Moose-Wilson Road three miles south of Moose. Drive down the road (only a portion is paved) for just over 1.5 miles to the parking lot at the Death Canyon Trailhead. Note that this road is badly rutted. It is possible, but definitely not ideal, to get over it in a non-high-clearance car. There are some small parking lots along the way, so you can stop and walk the rest of the way if the road gets too treacherous.

            The trail system is well marked and there are numerous options, so I’m not going to give step-by-step directions here. But I will offer lots of ideas for how to enjoy this area of the park.

            Hike the Lake Creek - Woodland Trail Loop: This excursion starts at the LSR Preserve visitor center, combining the Lake Creek Trail and the Woodland Trail in a 2.9-mile loop. You’ll follow Lake Creek part of the way, meandering through the forest, crossing the Moose-Wilson Road, passing some enormous glacial boulders, and coming to the south shore of Phelps Lake. You can do the loop in either direction. Elevation gain is limited to a few hundred feet, so this is an ideal family outing. If you do this trail, take the time to read the pamphlet available at the trailhead - it gives you a much greater appreciation of the various environments you’re walking through.

            Walk to the Phelps Lake Overlook and the lake via the Valley Trail: This route was accessible even prior to the establishment of the LSR Preserve. Start at the Death Canyon Trailhead at the end of the Whitegrass Ranch Road. After a tenth of a mile, you intersect with the Valley Trail. Turn left and continue on to the Phelps Lake Overlook. You actually start at an elevation higher than Phelps then climb about 400 feet to the overlook above the north end of the lake. This gives you a really cool view of Phelps, the valley beyond, and the Gros Ventres. The hike to the overlook is just short of a mile. From the overlook, you can descend another mile to the lake.

            Walk the Phelps Lake loop: Access Phelps via either the Valley Trail or the Preserve trails, and then loop around the lake. The trail itself is roughly four miles, which does not include the distance to get to the lake. The views around Phelps Lake are incredible. From the south shore, you see the lake set against the Tetons. From the north shore, you see the lake set against the Gros Ventres. Be sure to take the short spur trail to Huckleberry Point, which juts into the lake from the southwest shore and gives you a great perspective on the lake and the Tetons. Speaking of huckleberries …

            Go huckleberry hunting: Phelps Lake grows a bumper crop of huckleberries, so watch for a tasty snack, particularly along the south shore and near Huckleberry Point later in the summer. Be sure you know what you’re looking for. And bear in mind that bears like huckleberries too.

            Cross country ski or snowshoe: Phelps Lake is also a favorite cross-country skiing or snowshoeing destination. The Moose-Wilson Road is closed in winter from the Granite Canyon trailhead to the junction with the Whitegrass Ranch Road, so you’ll have a longer journey than in the summertime. But the sight of the lake set against the Tetons makes it worth the trip. I like to park at the Granite Canyon trailhead, ski up the Moose-Wilson Road for about a mile to the old JY Ranch Road, and then follow the old JY Ranch Road for less than a mile to the south shore of Phelps Lake.

            Hike into Death Canyon: If you want a longer adventure, the possibilities are endless. Through Death Canyon, you can eventually access the Teton Crest Trail or can take the challenging - but very rewarding - hike up Static Peak. Even just hiking into the narrow, long, unforgettable Death Canyon is worth your time. Hiking up Open Canyon or doing the Open Canyon - Granite Canyon loop are also possibilities. Note that all of these are full-day - at least - adventures.

            Other options: There are a few backcountry campsites located near the north end of Phelps Lake. … Go fishing … Or hike the Boulder Ridge Trail and Aspen Ridge Trail in the LSR Preserve.

            Phelps Lake’s low elevation makes it accessible for much of the year. I’ve hiked to the lake as early as May and as late as mid-November. Its proximity to Jackson makes it a great choice for an after-work hike. And the area offers numerous trails, giving you plenty of options. Don’t forget your camera - this is one of the most photogenic lakes around.

           

Links: Grand Teton National Park lakeshore hikes brochure (PDF)

Grand Teton National Park day hikes brochure (PDF)

The Cache Creek / Game Creek Loop

Posted by Jim Steele on June 6th, 2009 filed in Gros Ventres, Mountain Biking
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            I spend most of my summer outdoors time hiking, but I’m no one-trick pony. I’ve also been known to mountain bike. One of my favorite trails is the Cache Creek / Game Creek loop southeast of Jackson.

            But before I write another word, a major caveat. I really don’t know what I’m doing on a mountain bike. Any attempt on my part to do “technical” biking would lead to a painful death, possibly due to being impaled by handlebars. So if you’re looking for tips on a death-defying Gary Fisher-esque ride, you should probably find another Web site.

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            By mountain biking standards, The Cache / Game route is not exceptionally difficult - you gain about 1,000 feet climbing from the Cache Creek trailhead to the top of a divide above the Game Creek drainage. From there, it’s all downhill until you meet the highway five miles south of Jackson. If you ride the bike path back into town, completing the full loop, it’s about 20 miles. If you leave one car at the Cache Creek trailhead and the other at the Game Creek trailhead, it’s half that.

            This loop has two things to offer. First, the scenery is outstanding. You follow Cache Creek for about four miles through a canyon, and this makes for a scenic trip. As you get closer to a bridge over Cache Creek, you’ll see a great view of Cache Peak. At the top of the Cache / Game divide, you’ll get a great view of an unnamed peak and could take in an impressive wildflower display. The sweeping views coming down Game Creek are also outstanding. And along some of the ridges above Game Creek, you’ll see some interesting rock formations. You’ll ride above some marshy areas along Game Creek where you have a decent chance to see ungulates.

            Second, the ride down Game Creek is exhilarating. It’s downhill the entire way, so you’ll get a chance to rest after the gradual climb up Cache Creek. It’s not a technical ride, but you do have to watch for roots, rocks and other obstacles. Don’t get going faster than you’re comfortable with - there are plenty of switchbacks, blind corners, and other trail users. I have chest-planted twice on this trail after not heeding the above advice.

            You can do Cache / Game in either direction. It’s more fun to ride down Game, so I’ll describe the trail going clockwise. To start, make your way to the Cache Creek trailhead, which is in the southeast corner of Jackson and offers a large parking area. Pick your favorite east-west street (Broadway or Hansen Avenue are good candidates), follow it to Redmond Street on the east end of town, and then follow Redmond south to Cache Creek Road. Turn left and follow Cache Creek Road as it eventually turns into a dirt road and climbs modestly en route to the trailhead.

            At the trailhead, you have a couple of options. You can ride up the two-track main trail known as the “Sidewalk,” which can sometimes be heavily congested, or take the single-track Putt-Putt trail, which runs parallel to the north for a while before rejoining the two-track. The two-track begins at a gate just east of the parking area.

            As you follow Cache Creek for about four miles, you’ll climb gradually. After a few minutes, you’ll pass the area where the Bar T-5 hosts its covered wagon cookout. Next you pass Salt Lick Draw, a trail to Turqouise Lake, and Gin Pole Draw. This is a popular multi-use trail, so watch for walkers, dogs and horses - always yield to horseback riders. Also, bears are not uncommon. You’re riding through a canyon under the Gros Ventres the whole way, and as you get closer to the junction, the views of Cache Peak will start to open up.

            After almost four miles and roughly 800 feet of elevation gain, you’ll come to a bridge over Cache Creek. The Cache Creek trail continues on, passing the former Noker Mine and eventually leading to Granite Hot Springs (note that a portion of that trail passes through a wilderness area where bicycling is not permitted). After you cross the bridge, you’ll begin the toughest climb on a single-track, quickly gaining about 250 feet to the Game Creek / Cache Creek divide. I always have to walk my bike up part of this section.

            From the top, you’ll start to enjoy some sweeping views of Game Creek. The trail will be a single-track for several miles and there is some switchbacking as you begin your descent. Control your speed and enjoy the ride! You’ll pass a junction with the West Game Creek Trail over a small bridge heading north. As you get closer to the trailhead, the trail becomes a double-track again. Watch for other trail users, including horseback riders and walkers. This is the area where Paul DeBoer, who used to live above Game Creek, got into various tiffs with trail users. While DeBoer’s vigilante patrols are over, this remains a heavily used area. At the Game Creek trailhead, you join the paved Game Creek Road at a big bend; follow Game Creek Road downward for a mile to U.S. Highway 191/89/26.

            A paved, separate bike trail parallels the highway to the west; you’re about five miles south of High School Road and will climb up and down a few modest hills as you return to town, gaining a modest amount of elevation. You’ll pass a Phillips 66 station that offers your first chance to buy a snack or a beverage since you left town. Once you get back into town, follow city streets to wherever you left your car. All told, it’s about a 20-mile loop.

            This loop seems to offer it all: a decent workout, great views, wildflowers, wildlife, proximity to town, and an exhilarating descent. And, of course, there is no reason that all or parts of this loop couldn’t be enjoyed as a hike. Enjoy!

Site News and Notes

Posted by Jim Steele on May 27th, 2009 filed in News
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A few notes about The Mountain Goat …

Winter’s finally over! I’ve already been hiking and biking plenty of times and am stoked for the summer. I’ve got plenty of trips in mind: Mount Woodring, Turquoise Lake, the Pitchstone Plateau traverse and Mount Holmes are on my list, with a backpacking trip to the Thorofare region of Yellowstone also a possibility. I hope to have plenty of new subject matter for The Mountain Goat as the summer passes.

One thing that has frustrated me so far is that I haven’t been able to note trail updates on the fly. By the time I get an article written, it has sometimes been several weeks since I’ve done the hike. The fresh batch of huckleberries or cool wildflower show that I want to tip everyone off to could be over. I’ve added a Twitter feed so that I can do updates right after — or during — a hike. Note that this won’t be your normal Twitter feed. I’m not going to tell you about a trip to Safeway or what I had for lunch. This Twitter feed is for outdoor news, notes and reflections only. I’ve added the feed to the main MountainGoat.net homepage. I’ll do some updates from the trail via my Treo — my most recent Tweet was posted at Hermitage Point.

The Twitter feed opens up some new possibilities. If you have something to report to your fellow hikers — a trail that just became passable, for example, send me an email so I can post a Tweet.

And please don’t hesitate to add comments to my articles. I really want this site to become more of a forum. If you have a tip about one of the trails I’ve written about or just want to reflect on your hike, please add your two cents. I’ve required registration because I was getting too many spammy comments, but don’t hesitate to register and weigh in. I would even welcome guest articles.

Don’t miss my new gallery: gallery.themountaingoat.net. And watch for my next article on mountain biking the Cache Creek / Game Creek Loop.

Morning Glory Pool and Artemisia

Posted by Jim Steele on May 22nd, 2009 filed in Yellowstone National Park
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            The Upper Geyser Basin of Yellowstone National Park - the hectic area that includes Old Faithful - has so much to see that it’s difficult to suggest a route. You really can’t go wrong grabbing a trail guide and following your nose. But I have found a less discovered adventure that leads you to some of the coolest geysers in the park and past a couple of gorgeous hot pools. It also offers the possibility of at least a little solitude.

            This path leads you down the paved trail from Old Faithful Geyser past Castle Geyser, Grotto Geyser and Riverside Geyser, over the Firehole River, and to the Morning Glory Pool. From Morning Glory, you continue on a dirt path past the gorgeous Artemisia Geyser and Gem Pool and end at Biscuit Basin, where you’ll rejoin a developed boardwalk and see the spectacular Sapphire Pool and numerous other thermal features. The total distance from the heart of the Old Faithful village to Biscuit Basin is 2.3 miles, so plan on at least five miles with all the side trips. If you time your trip right, you’ll see the eruptions of some of the coolest geysers in Yellowstone.

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            The trail starts in front of the Old Faithful Inn and the west Old Faithful Conoco station, initially running parallel to the road that leads back to the Grand Loop Road. The trail from here to the Morning Glory Pool is paved. In addition to being a great place for a walk or a jog, the trail is open to bikes in the summer and is a popular cross country skiing and snowshoeing route in the winter. You’ll skirt the edge of the heart of the Upper Geyser Basin and follow the path of the Firehole River.

            The first geyser you’ll see is the impressive Castle Geyser, which is roughly 0.4 miles from Old Faithful Inn. Castle, with its large cone, is impressive. Eruptions reach almost 100 feet every 10 to 12 hours. Don’t be surprised to see a crowd if an eruption is imminent; predicted eruptions are sometimes posted.

            At Castle, you have two options. You can take the boardwalk that heads northeast from the geyser, following it past the impressive Grand Geyser and Giant Geyser and past a number of smaller geysers and pools before rejoining the paved path just before the Morning Glory Pool. Note that bikes are not allowed on the boardwalk.

            Otherwise, continue on the paved path. This area of the geyser basin is a great place to see buffalo roaming - they love the flat, grassy terrain. After about 0.6 miles, you’ll come to a trail that leads you on a small loop past Daisy Geyser and a few other features. If you have a few extra minutes, this area is also worth exploring. The small Punch Bowl Spring, which is an additional 0.3 miles off the end of the loop, is interesting. The loop rejoins the paved path about a tenth of a mile later.

            Your next stop is Grotto Geyser, which is truly fascinating. Grotto has a jagged, surreal appearance; an interpretive sign theorizes that a grove once existed there and the geyser formed in its midst, gradually hardening the trees and creating the uneven geyser cone that you see today.

            If you took the side trip past Grand Geyser and Giant Geyser, you’ll rejoin the Morning Glory Pool trail here. Your next stop is Riverside Geyser, which formed just above the chilly waters of the Firehole River. You have to take a small loop trail off the main Morning Glory Pool trail to get to Riverside, but it’s worth the trip. Again, you have to time your trip right - or be very patient - if you want to see an eruption, but it’s intriguing if you do. Riverside’s cone comes out of the earth at an angle, and so do its eruptions, which reach about 75 feet every six hours.

            After detouring past Riverside, you’ll loop back to the main trail, where your next stop is a bridge over the Firehole River. This is a really cool setting. You can see the Firehole flowing downward, with the hills that surround Old Faithful as a backdrop. There are numerous small thermal features near the banks of the Firehole. Overall, it’s just a cool place to soak in the beauty of Yellowstone. Stop and enjoy the scene for a minute or two. It’s especially gorgeous at sunset.

            Next you’ll come to the end of the paved trail and the Morning Glory Pool, which is about 1.4 miles from the Old Faithful village. Morning Glory Pool is a sad testament to the influence of people on Yellowstone. Morning Glory once was a vibrant blue color, but over the years, people have thrown numerous objects into the pool, clogging the vent and leading to a reduction in the pool’s temperature. As a result, it just isn’t the same gorgeous blue that it used to be. I can tell a difference just in pictures I’ve taken a few years ago. The National Park Service removes as much of the debris as it can, but it is clearly a losing battle.

            Most people will turn around here and return to the Old Faithful area or continue to explore the Upper Geyser Basin. But if you continue for another few minutes down the unpaved trail that wanders in and out of the forest, you’ll see the gorgeous Artemisia Geyser and Gem Pool, which are about a half mile past the Morning Glory Pool. These pools are the color that Morning Glory used to be, a deep, gorgeous blue, and are well worth the trip. Additionally, it’s one of your better chances to get off the beaten path and away from the throngs of people around Old Faithful. The crowds thin considerably when you leave the paved trail (note that you would also have to leave your bike behind.). The trail is well above Artemisia and Gem Pool, giving you a great vantage point to take in their stunning beauty. I’m always surprised by how few people you see on this trail, and highly recommend it.

            If you continue another half mile, you’ll come to a junction where you can head north to the Fairy Falls trailhead or cross the highway between Old Faithful and Madison Junction and come to Biscuit Basin. You can drive to the Biscuit Basin trailhead - it’s only a few minutes from the Old Faithful area - but if you’re already at Artemisia, it’s not much further. Biscuit Basin is also fun to explore. It only takes a few minutes to explore the entire geyser basin, and you’ll be glad you did. There are numerous interesting thermal features, but none more gorgeous than the Sapphire Pool, which is another gorgeous blue and is worth the trip itself.

            There are plenty of other options to continue exploring. A trail from the edge of the Biscuit Basin trail leads to Mystic Falls. Another bike trail skirts the south shore of the Firehole River and connects to the Morning Glory Pool trail near Grotto Geyser. From Punch Bowl Spring, you can continue walking out to the Black Sand Basin. And on your way back, you can enter the Old Faithful area boardwalk system and hike up to the Old Faithful Overlook. That’s one of the great things about the Old Faithful area - you will never run out of places to explore. If you check with the Visitor Center to find out when some of the secondary geysers, like Castle and Grand, are going to erupt, you could plan a whole day trying to catch some of these eruptions and exploring the nearby areas.

Norris Geyser Basin

Posted by Jim Steele on April 22nd, 2009 filed in Yellowstone National Park
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If you asked me to pick my favorite thermal area in Yellowstone National Park, my brain would probably short circuit. The Upper Geyser Basin with Old Faithful is a natural candidate. Shoshone Geyser Basin, buried deep in the backcountry, is fun to explore. And the Mud Volcano area is truly intriguing. Another that belongs on the list is the Norris Geyser Basin, which just might be the most dynamic.

Norris is the home of the famous Steamboat Geyser, which is the world’s tallest but erupts infrequently and unpredictably. Some of the scenes, such as Pork Chop Geyser and the silica-filled dead forests, tell a story. You’ll see an incredible range of colors. And the setting, where you’ll feel like you’re surrounded by a ring of mountains, is gorgeous.

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But first, a caveat. Most of the adventures I have written about are true hikes, where you venture miles back into the mountains and, presumably, escape civilization. Norris offers a stroll through a developed geyser basin where you’re never too far from a boardwalk. Don’t expect a lot of solitude, and don’t count on seeing anything that has never been seen.

That said, this is a very interesting geyser basin to explore. Norris is located near the center of the park at a junction, so if you’re exploring Yellowstone, odds are you’ll be in the neighborhood. There are more interpretive signs than in most of Yellowstone’s thermal areas, so you’ll learn something while you’re there. And Norris is generally accessible throughout the entire summer season, from mid April through early November, although you might encounter some snow on the boardwalks in the fringe seasons.

The Norris junction is located 21 miles south of the Mammoth Hot Springs area, 12 miles west of Canyon Village, and 14 miles northeast of Madison Junction. From the junction, head west for about a quarter mile to a large parking lot. Norris has a Yellowstone Association bookstore, small museum, outhouses and a pay phone, but no other services.

There are two main loops at Norris. The Back Basin Loop is about 1.5 miles and includes Steamboat Geyser. The Porcelain Basin Loop is about 0.5 miles and includes some fantastic views of the surrounding mountains. Both loops start at the Norris Museum. A one-mile trail to the Norris Campground and Museum of the National Park Ranger starts from the Porcelain Basin Loop trail.

The trails are well marked and there are maps at many of the junctions so it’s easy to find what you’re interested in. A “Norris Geyser Basin Trail Guide” published by the National Park Service is available for 50 cents at the trailhead. This brochure is very informative and I recommend buying one.

Here are a few highlights to watch for:
Steamboat Geyser: Steamboat has frequent minor eruptions, but the Holy Grail is a full eruption, which was last seen in 2005. Steamboat, located just a few minutes from the Norris Museum, is on the Back Basin Loop. It is the world’s tallest geyser, erupting to heights of 300 feet. It was last seen by a couple that was camping illegally in the Norris parking lot and heard the tremendous rumbling of the geyser. You probably won’t see a major eruption of Steamboat, but it does have frequent minor eruptions.

Pork Chop Geyser: Pork Chop is always good for a chuckle because of the name. But the geyser also has an interesting story. It formed when the vent of a formerly tame hot spring wasn’t able to regulate the pressure coming from below, resulting in an explosion that left several large chunks of the geyser strewn around the vent. This is one of the settings where Norris really seems to tell a story - it doesn’t take much imagination to see nature at work here. It’s also interesting to note that the trail between nearby Yellow Funnel Spring and Pearl Geyser was rerouted a few years ago when the ground temperatures reached the boiling point.

Green Dragon Spring: This feature, also on the Back Basin Loop, reminds me of Dragon’s Mouth Spring in the Mud Volcano area. Steam is constantly being released from a pool that partially fills a cave cut out of the side of a hill. It’s a really interesting setting.

Other highlights on the Back Basin Loop: Emerald Spring, which is a gorgeous blue color. Cistern Spring, which also has a vibrant color. The dead forests, killed when the waters of the geyser basin changed course, hardening their trunks with silica.

Porcelain Basin Loop: There is an interesting contrast between the Back Basin Loop and the Porcelain Basin Loop. While the Back Basin Loop is partially forested, the Porcelain Basin Loop is generally open. The Black Growler Steam Vent is one of the most interesting features, shooting an often-tall column of steam that is visible from much of the basin.

The colors: You’ll see a great diversity of colors along these trails. Some of the hot pools will be a gorgeous blue. Some of the runoff channels will be covered with deep green mats. Plenty of the sulfur-rich features will be yellow. The forests could be green, or - in a few cases - a spooky white where they have been killed by overheated soil or ever-moving water channels. And depending on the season, the surrounding mountains could be snow-capped.

These are just a few of the dozens of interesting thermal features in the Norris Geyser Basin. These are the features that I thought were interesting - you could be intrigued by a completely different set of features.

One more suggestion: the Park Service often offers interpretive tours of Norris. These are interesting and will give you an interesting perspective on the geyser basin.

 

Signal Mountain

Posted by Jim Steele on February 10th, 2009 filed in Cross Country Skiing
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            Signal Mountain makes for an interesting little adventure - you get nice views of the Tetons and the Gros Ventres and could see just about species of wildlife imaginable - but I’ve never been too crazy about hiking to the top.

            What strange words to put on a Web site that’s all about hiking. “I’ve never been too crazy about hiking to the top?” What gives?
            Well, a paved road leads to the summit. Why not drive up Signal Mountain, I have reasoned, and save your hiking energies for a trip that is not accessible in even the smallest of cars? My attitude might be different if Signal Mountain was the only hill in the region, but it’s not like there aren’t plenty of other great trails nearby.
            But I have an entirely different philosophy in the winter, when the road up Signal Mountain is closed to all motor vehicles, including snowmobiles. This creates the possibility of a really interesting cross country skiing adventure. You follow the road the whole way, which means that the grade is reasonable. 700 feet of elevation gain and up to six miles of trail later, you’ll be at the top, most likely a little sore but rewarded with really cool views. From Jackson Point, you see part of Jackson Lake and the Teton Range. Continue another half mile or so to the summit and you’ll enjoy a cool view of the Snake River and Gros Ventres.

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            It’s unique to be able to cross country ski to the top of a mountain without having to worry about steep slopes and avalanches. Even better, it’s unlikely that you’ll have much company - I’ve never seen more than a few people skiing to the top. There is sometimes a decent set of tracks, although there’s no guarantee that you won’t be breaking trail. However, Union Wireless maintains a cellular tower at the top and seems to have to access its installation frequently, so it’s not uncommon for there to be snowmobile tracks to ski on. The Park Service does not groom this trail.
            To get to the trailhead, drive to Signal Mountain Lodge. The Inner Park Road is not plowed in the winter, so you have to take U.S. Highway 89/191/287 to Moran Junction, drove northwest about three miles to the Jackson Lake Junction near the Jackson Lake Dam, and then head southwest for three miles to Signal Mountain Lodge. The Inner Park Road is gated just south of the Signal Mountain Lodge area. This is where your trip begins.
            To follow the main trail, ski one flat mile south on the Inner Park Road to the junction with the Signal Mountain Road, which shortly turns north and begins to gradually gain elevation as you climb to the summit. After about a mile, you’ll pass a small pond to your right. From here, it’s a slow, steady grind to the top. You’ll be in forest the whole way, so you don’t get too many chances at a view. However, there are some places where Mount Moran, Jackson Lake and the Willow Flats areas are visible through breaks in the trees, giving you a unique perspective on the northern end of Grand Teton National Park. You’ll also see a variety of animal tracks scampering through the forest. I saw tracks that could have been left by a mountain lion during a late-season hike in early December, along with various others.
            You also have an option for a shortcut. Just south of the gate on the Inner Park Road near Signal Mountain Lodge, the Signal Mountain hiking trail begins. There is a sign, but it could be covered by snow late in the season. You can take this trail, stumble through the forest for about a third of a mile, and then join the Signal Mountain Road at the pond. It’s a tough trail to ski because there is some elevation gain, but you’ll shave about 3.5 miles off your round trip. The savings is possible because the Signal Mountain Road and Inner Park Road essentially parallel each other for a couple of miles.
            You’ll finally emerge from the forest near the top at Jackson Point, which is 200 feet off the main road and offers you a great view of the Teton Range and part of Jackson Lake. You’ll also be able to make out the ski runs on Snow King, Jackson Peak and Sleeping Indian. Although you’re still in the trees, you will be able to get a mostly unobstructed view of the Tetons. The Signal Mountain hiking trail ends here.

            You might think that you’re at the top but the actual summit of Signal Mountain is about a half mile up the road. Initially the road traverses a ridge that offers you views of the Gros Ventres, then reenters the forest. At the summit, you’ll see the Snake River flowing toward Moran below the Jackson Lake Dam, the glacial “Potholes,” Jackson Peak, Sleeping Indian, more of the Gros Ventres, and towards Jackson. You don’t see the Teton Range.

            At the top, there is an outhouse, a picnic table, and a cell tower. Take some time to enjoy the view while you’re up here - it’s unique to be able to cross country ski to the top of a mountain. The summit is also an interesting place to reflect on the geology of Jackson Hole. You can see the glacial canyons of the Tetons, the moraines they left behind, and the glacial kettles, or “Potholes,” in the flats.
            The trail isn’t steep enough that you can just coast to the bottom, but the trip back will be a breeze compared to the ascent. If you need to warm up when you get back, Signal Mountain Lodge keeps the restrooms in the registration building open throughout the winter.

Harriman State Park

Posted by Jim Steele on January 26th, 2009 filed in Cross Country Skiing
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My trail reviews have been sparse for the last month or so. In a completely unexpected development, it turns out that we have received considerable snowfall over the past couple of months, which has prevented me from hiking, leaving me depressed and irritable while robbing TheMountainGoat.net of fresh, engaging subject matter. Sigh.

But winter is not a total loss. There is something about seeing a beautiful forest with an inch of new snow on all of the trees, animal tracks wandering through a meadow, or an almost-frozen river surrounded by ice and snow that is almost magical. One place to experience all three of these winterscapes is Harriman State Park in Island Park, Idaho.

Harriman is an old ranch that was owned by a group of investors in the Union Pacific Railroad and donated to the state in 1982 by Roland Averell Harriman. It sits on the south end of Island Park, with the Henry’s Fork running through the eastern edge of the park. More importantly, Harriman has a trail system that includes 25 miles of groomed trails and some skier defined trails.

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One of my favorite things about Harriman is that you can basically pick your own adventure - the extensive trail system gives you plenty of options. The Ridge Trail climbs above the meadows of Harriman State Park, giving you a view of the Tetons and much of Island Park. The trails that follow the Henry’s Fork offer you an unbeatable chance to see trumpeter swans and enjoy a beautiful river. You can ski a loop around Silver Lake or back to the smaller Golden Lake. And in addition to grooming most of the trails (part of the Silver Lake Loop and the Ridge Trail excepted) for cross country skiing, some of the trails are also groomed for skate skiing.

One of the other cool things about Harriman is that some of the facilities are open in the winter. The Jones House, a former residence on the ranch overlooking the Henry’s Fork, is open limited hours on weekends as a warming hut; it’s only accessible via skis in the winter. The Jones House is a great place to buy a warm drink and watch trumpeter swans on the river. There is another small warming hut on the north end of the park. Large enough to hold a half dozen people, it has a stove and usually has some tinder and logs ready for you to start a fire. There are also some yurts near the visitor center that are available for rental.

To get to Harriman, drive 18 miles north from Ashton, Idaho, along U.S. Highway 20 or 45 miles south from West Yellowstone, Montana. You’ll see a sign for Harriman State Park south of the Osborne Bridge. Follow the road to the visitor’s center, which is the trailhead and sits at the south end of the Harriman system. A $4 per car and $2 per skier admission fee is assessed; you can pay at the visitor’s center. The $2 portion of the fee goes to pay to groom the trails.

You can pick up a map at the visitor’s center or download it from Harriman’s Web site. There are about 25 junctions throughout the trail system, and most are well marked with maps. Here are some ideas:’

Silver Lake Loop: This trail mostly follows the shores of Silver Lake, which will probably be completely frozen over, although signs warn of thin ice. The loop begins near the visitor’s center. The southwest half of the loop is not groomed and follows rolling hills through the forests along the southwest shore. Eventually you’ll make a wide circle around the northwest end of the lake, where you’ll rejoin the groomed trail system. From here you can continue skiing deeper into Harriman or begin to return to the visitor center via groomed trail on the second half of the Silver Lake Loop. I like this trail because you’ll probably have the ungroomed portion of the loop mostly to yourself - although there will likely be tracks to follow - and because the setting is serene. All told, the loop is about five miles. The park considers it “intermediate-advanced.”

Ridge Trail: This is one of the coolest trails in the park. It climbs about 400 feet on top of a ridge on the west end of the park, where a couple of points offer you views of Silver Lake, the Henry’s Fork, Island Park, and the Tetons in the distance. On a clear day, the view is tough to beat. You’ll probably also see some animal tracks. This is a challenging trail, both because of the elevation gain and the fact that the trails are not groomed. It is less heavily traveled and there may not be tracks to follow. There are some trail markers, but if it has snowed recently and you’re not familiar with the trail, it would be difficult to follow. Proceed with caution, but prepare to be rewarded. The Ridge Trail itself is about 2.2 miles, but you’ve also got to ski about 2.5 miles to get to one of the trailheads. The park considers this an “advanced” trail.

Henry’s Fork trails: You can follow the Henry’s Fork along the “River Trail” from the visitor’s center to the Railroad Ranch, and then continue to follow it for 2.5 more miles as part of the “Big Bend Loop” northeast of the ranch. Either segment makes for a beautiful trip. The trails generally stay near the shore, offering you a great view of the river. You’re virtually guaranteed to see plenty of trumpeter swans floating majestically on the waters. If you’re skiing along the Big Bend Loop on a clear day, you’ll get more great views of the Tetons and will see Mount Sawtelle towering over Island Park to the north. The combination of the river, the swans and the Teton views make this a great trip. The park considers the Big Bend Loop an “intermediate” trail, presumably because of the distance. This trail is mostly flat.

The Grand Loop: Last time I was at Harriman, I skied the southwest shore of Silver Lake, connected with the Ridge Trail, and then followed the park’s northernmost trails along Golden Lake to connect with the Big Bend Loop, where I skied back along the Henry’s Fork and through the Railroad Ranch. All told, it was about a 12-mile adventure and took about six hours, including plenty of breaks for photography. I saw the Tetons from the Ridge Trail and the Big Bend Loop, dozens of Trumpeter Swans, both of the park’s lakes, and skied through the historic Railroad Ranch. If the weather is good, if you have some experience cross country skiing, and you have a day to spend touring, I highly recommend this option.

Other options: There are plenty of shorter loops, including the Meadow Loop, the Thurmon Creek Loop, and the Golden Lake Loop. The trip to the Railroad Ranch is fun if you’re looking for a shorter trip, especially if you ski back along the River Trail as part of your loop. From the Railroad Ranch, you’re about a mile and a half from the Becker Warming Hut and the Thurman Overlook, which gives you some decent views of the park, although not as cool as the ones from the Ridge Trail. One of my favorite things about Harriman is that there are so many trails that you can change your plans on the fly.

Notes: These trails are very popular among residents of Eastern Idaho, so if you’re after solitude, you might not find it. However, the vast majority of skiers stay on the trails near the visitor’s center and the Railroad Ranch. You won’t see nearly as many people on the rest of the trails. Although the parking lot was packed on my most recent rip, I only ran into three people on the Ridge Trail and two near the Big Bend Loop. Also, these trails are open for hiking and horseback riding in the summer.

Links

Harriman State Park Website

Harriman winter trail guide

Teton Sunset

Posted by Jim Steele on December 7th, 2008 filed in Grand Teton National Park
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Every once in a while, I start to take the grandeur of the mountains for granted.

Then I see a sunset like the one I saw tonight. The two pictures below are taken from just south of the Signal Mountain Lodge area on the shore of Jackson Lake. They show a truly incredible sunset — one of the best I’ve ever seen — behind the heart of the Teton Range.

Phantom Fumarole

Posted by Jim Steele on December 6th, 2008 filed in Yellowstone National Park
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You are reading what might be the first article dedicated to Phantom Fumarole on the Internet. There are very few mentions of the quirky thermal area in southern Yellowstone National Park online - in fact, my article about Union Falls, which mentions the fumarole only in passing, comes up on the first page of Google search results. In a world with a zillion articles about Old Faithful, it seems only fair that Phantom Fumarole should have a Web page too.

Phantom Fumarole is 4.5 miles from the South Entrance road via the Pitchstone Plateau trail. I’ve only been to the fumarole once, with my friend John Hebberger Jr. We were more interested in exploring the Pitchstone Plateau than seeing Phantom Fumarole. However, the fumarole proved to be much more interesting than expected, which made up for the fact that snow and weather prevented us from going as far onto the plateau as we had hoped.

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The name “Phantom Fumarole” doesn’t do justice to the area. By definition, a fumarole is a dry area where steam and gases emerge from the ground in a volcanic area - without a doubt, a common feature in Yellowstone. However, Phantom Fumarole had some pools of bubbling water and other pools of standing water in addition to the various gas vents. In short, it was a much more dynamic area than the name implies.

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However, there is a major caveat. We were at Phantom Fumarole well into the fall, when there had been plenty of precipitation and there were a few inches of snow on the surrounding terrain. As a result, there was a lot of water in the fumarole - much more than there probably is in July. This was my first trip to the fumarole, so I don’t know what it looks like in other seasons. I did find a few pictures that showed a much drier fumarole than we saw.

Regardless, it still seemed to be a more interesting area than it gets credit for. It’s a reasonably large thermal area - certainly not the Upper Geyser Basin, but much larger than the vents that periodically crop up in the parking lot at Mud Volcano. If you’re looking for a late season hike, this could be a good choice, as the peak elevation on this hike is roughly 8,500 feet. That said, this is a good hike for a seasoned explorer that wants to see a new perspective on Yellowstone. You’ll see a different side of the park than you’re used to, thanks to the volcanic soils, the unique views from the plateau, and the fumarole. But if you’re looking for your first Yellowstone day hike, there are many better choices.

This hike offers the added benefit of some serious solitude in a lightly used area of the park. The Pitchstone Plateau trail is less well defined than many - although easy to follow at least as far as the fumarole. There are campsites a mile from Phantom Fumarole and plenty of others further along the trail. Some backpackers choose to do an 18-mile traverse through the plateau, starting at the trailhead south of Lewis Falls and emerging at the Grassy Lake Reservoir along the Ashton-Flagg Ranch Road after fording the Falls River at the junction with the Union Falls trail. If you’re looking for a multi-day backpacking trip without running into the masses, this would be a fine choice. Just bring plenty of bug repellant - this is prime mosquito country.

To get to the trailhead, drive north from the south entrance of Yellowstone. The trailhead is a small parking area on the west side of the highway just a couple of miles south of Lewis Falls. It’s easy to miss - there is only enough room for a few cars at the parking lot. A large sign and a trail register are located at the trailhead.

The first phase of the hike is a fairly steep climb up the edge of the plateau. The climb begins just after the trailhead and gains about 400 feet quickly. Most of the rest of the trail is relatively level - you’ll gain roughly 400 additional feet on your way to the fumarole.

As you climb, you’ll definitely get the sense that you’re in a unique Yellowstone environment. The soil is gritty, with plenty of obsidian and other volcanic rock. It’s very interesting to note that the Pitchstone Plateau is only about 70,000 years old, so essentially everything that you’ll see on this hike is brand new in geologic terms.

Due to the gritty soils, the vegetation in this region is sparse compared to the rest of Yellowstone. Much of the forest burned in 1988, which makes for an interesting hike. It’s truly fascinating to see how much the forest has rejuvenated over the past 20 years. Some of the new trees will be taller than you are. And many of the burned trees are still standing. If you’re hiking on a windy day, the sound of the breeze blowing through the dead trees can be spooky.

The lack of vegetation enables you to enjoy some views that would otherwise have been blocked by the foliage. Near the start of the hike, you’ll be able to catch a quick glimpse of Lewis Lake and look toward the Absaroka Range. And if you hike just past Phantom Fumarole toward the campsites, you’ll see the Tetons.

After 4.5 miles, you arrive at Phantom Fumarole. It’s an interesting area. There were a few inches of snow when we visited, but we could see numerous places near the fumarole where the warmth coming through the ground had melted all of the snow.

In the middle of the fumarole, water was gushing, making the thermal area much more interesting than if we had only heard gases escaping from the earth. We were both surprised at how much water there was in the fumarole, and I’m hoping to get back there sometime in July or August next summer to see how much of a difference the late-season precipitation had made. I wouldn’t be surprised to find it bone dry in the middle of the summer.

Just behind the fumarole, we saw a patch of ground where green mosses were able to grow on the ground due to the temperature of the soils. The green, mossy ground, numerous burned trees rising behind it, and younger trees growing among the dead made for an interesting contrast.

After a lifetime of exploring the thermal areas in places like Old Faithful and the Norris Geyser Basin, it’s always a treat to get back into a backcountry thermal area like Phantom Fumarole where you can explore without restrictions. There are no boardwalks or warning signs and you won’t see many people back there, so you might get a chance to see Phantom Fumarole up close. That said, be careful - the crust is thin here, the water is hot, and you’re a long way from the highway.

After you’re done exploring the fumarole, you can continue along the Pitchstone Plateau trail or retrace your steps back to your car.

If anyone else has visited the area - particularly at different times of the year - I’d love to read about your experiences. Leave a comment or send me an email.

Reflections: A Beautiful Weekend in the Tetons

Posted by Jim Steele on November 16th, 2008 filed in Grand Teton National Park
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Grand Teton National Park was absolutely spectacular this weekend. The solitude, the snow in the mountains, the general lack of snow on the valley floor, and the reasonably warm temperatures and clear skies created one of the most beautiful settings I’ve enjoyed lately.

Even better, it felt like I had the entire place to myself. The season, combined with the closure of the Inner Park Road, part of the Moose-Wilson Road, and almost all of the park facilities meant that only the hearty ventured off the road.

And after two soggy weekends, a trailhead was a sight for sore eyes. So I did the only thing I could do - an outdoor overdose. I hiked the Phelps Lake loop on Saturday, accessing the area via the Phelps Lake Overlook trail instead of the Laurance S. Rockefeller Preserve. Then on Sunday, I biked from the Taggart Lake trailhead into Spalding Bay of Jackson Lake.

Saturday’s adventure started from near the White Grass Trailhead. I was pleasantly surprised to see that the road from the Moose-Wilson Road to the trailhead was open, and I got within a five minute walk of the trailhead in Plinko, my non-four-wheel drive, non-high-clearance car, despite signs helpfully noting that the Park Service recommends a high-clearance, four-wheel drive vehicle on this treacherous road. The Moose-Wilson Road is closed for the season from the Granite Creek trailhead to the White Grass Ranch Road, so getting to Phelps Lake is a little more complicated than it would be in the summer.

But it was worth the trip. After a few minutes exploring the White Grass Ranch, which the Park Service is renovating, I started the trip toward the Phelps Lake Overlook, and then down to Phelps Lake. The trail from the overlook down to the lake yields great views, which were made even better by a blue sky that was reflected vividly in the water.

Since the establishment of the Laurance S. Rockefeller Preserve after Mr. Rockefeller’s donation of the JY Ranch, the trail around Phelps Lake is now open to everyone and I enjoyed my first time completing the full loop.

Then today, I dusted off PlinkoBike and headed for the Taggart Lake trailhead. The Inner Park Road is closed to cars until next spring. Until the snow falls, bicyclists, joggers, hikers and roller bladers can enjoy the road from the Taggart Lake trailhead to the Signal Mountain area without fear of being smashed by a dude from California that rented a motor home the size of a semi truck and is still making the adjustment from his Pontiac Grand Prix.

There is something very unique about biking through the park instead of driving. You’re going slower, so you notice more things. It’s easier to stop at the various pullouts and take in the myriad views of the Tetons and notice how much different the view is from, for example, the Mountain View Turnout compared to the Teton Glacier Turnout. There’s nothing at all between you and the mountains and you just feel closer. The section of road between the Taggart Lake trailhead and Jenny Lake is particularly poignant. There is plenty of snow in the Tetons and the contrast of the white snow on the mountains was beautiful.

After I got done exploring the South Jenny Lake area (where I didn’t see a soul - a stark contrast to the summertime when the huge parking lot sometimes fills up) and detouring to String Lake, I headed up to Spaulding Bay, which I had never been to. It was such a serene setting and I was glad I had a few minutes to soak it in. The lake was beautiful, especially with snow-covered mountains rising in the distance. I wished I’d brought a tent and (very warm) sleeping bag so I could camp. Instead, having neither, I headed back and made it back to my car right around sunset.

The conditions were some of the best I’ve had lately for photography, so I hope you enjoy my pictures.