My Bechler-to-Old Faithful “day hike”
Posted by Jim Steele on January 12th, 2010 filed in Yellowstone National ParkComment now »
Until this summer, I had done very little hiking in the Bechler region of Yellowstone National Park. And for some unexplainable reason, I had never hiked 30 miles in a day.
So I devised a crazy plan to patch up both shortcomings in a single day.
I would start my trip at the Bechler Ranger Station at the southwest corner of Yellowstone early one Friday morning in late August, hiking through Bechler Meadows, up Bechler Canyon, over the Continental Divide three times, past Douglas Knob, over Grants Pass, and finally into the Old Faithful area.
The final tally? 30 miles, three fords, two awesome waterfalls and plenty of smaller ones, dozens of pictures, and one backcountry ranger that thought I was absolutely crazy.
Well, he was right. But there are different degrees of crazy, and this was crazy good.
The adventure started at about 7 a.m. at the Bechler Ranger Station, where I left my car. I found the trailhead and wandered through forests for a mile or two before emerging into the Bechler Meadows.
I’ve done some short hikes near Cave Falls and have been to Union Falls via all three approaches, but I’ve never been into the Bechler Meadows. Going through this region for the first time was an absolute treat. The day was clear. The meadows were a gorgeous amber color. I got to watch some large birds for quite a while (I’m not sure what they were). And the view south toward the Tetons was an awesome surprise that I hadn’t been expecting; the meadows, the streams and the Tetons created some interesting compositional opportunities for my pictures that I wished I had more time to fine-tune. It was almost embarrassing to admit to myself that I’d never been there.
The view toward the Tetons from Bechler Meadows, photographed on August 28, 2009.
I was lucky to be doing this hike in late August. The Bechler Meadows are known as a breeding ground for armies of ferocious mosquitoes. It also doesn’t take much imagination to see the trails becoming impassible early in the season due to high water. In fact, routes exist to the east and west of the main trail that bypass the heart of the meadow. If you were doing this hike early in the summer, you’d have to make some hard decisions about which route to take. Even in late August, I still met a few mosquitoes.
After a gritty ford of the Bechler River and 5.6 miles of hiking, I was ahead of schedule and nearing the mouth of Bechler Canyon. The Bechler Meadows were already pretty awesome. An even cooler surprise was waiting.
Bechler Canyon is narrow, lush, gorgeous, and packed with waterfalls. The first you see is the tall Ouzel Falls, which you only view from a distance. A couple miles beyond, you run into Colonnade Falls, which is actually a series of two wide waterfalls. A short spur trail leads to an outstanding viewpoint.
Colonnade Falls, phtoographed on August 28, 2009.
Just minutes past Colonnade Falls is Iris Falls, which is even wider and had a rainbow at its base. It looked like a postcard and seemed to be taunting me. “I’ve been here for eons, and this is the first time you’ve been here? Seriously?” I didn’t have a good explanation of my negligence for the waterfall gods.
Iris Falls, photographed on August 28, 2009.
As I wandered through the canyon, I saw plenty of berries. I’m no expert on what’s safe and what’s not, so I stayed clear. But the ones that looked like wild raspberries were oh-so-tempting. Someone who was enjoying one of the awesome campsites in the canyon probably could have augmented their stash of granola bars with some awesome fresh fruit.
As I continued up the canyon, I had to ford the Bechler two more times; I lost my footing on one of them and almost dropped my shoes, which would have presented quite a predicament. After the fords, I passed a few thermal areas and the Three Rivers Patrol Cabin. The ranger who was staying at the cabin seemed concerned about this crazy plan of mine. I was a little nervous as well; I wasn’t ahead of schedule any more. I didn’t have any overnight gear so it was Old Faithful or bust. After a quick lunch at Three River Junction near Ragged Falls (13.7 miles from the trailhead), I kicked it into gear.
Unfortunately, the challenge in trying to do this traverse in a day is that you don’t have time to explore. Near Three River Junction is a thermal area with a warm swimming hole known to some as “Mr. Bubbly.” It’s only a short detour off the trail, but I just didn’t have time to explore. Later in the hike, I passed within a couple miles of the Shoshone Geyser Basin, Shoshone Lake and Lone Star Geyser but, again, there wasn’t time for side trips.
After Three River Junction, the trail quickly starts gaining elevation as it climbs out of Bechler Canyon. After about a mile, a short spur trail leads to the intriguing Twister Falls, which literally cascades over a rock face at an angle. It was a captivating sight – and one that would have been even cooler earlier in the season when more water was gushing over it.
Twister Falls, photographed on August 28, 2009.
From there, the rest of the trip was just a grueling slog, wandering through a meadow under Douglas Knob, hopping over a creek, passing more campsites, eventually arriving at the junction with the Shoshone Lake Trail, passing over Grants Pass (the third and final crossing of the Continental Divide), and finally descending to Old Faithful at dusk via the Howard Eaton trail. Compared with the first half of my journey, the second half was basically forgettable. The five or six mile section from Twister Falls to the Shoshone Lake Trail junction was a pleasant walk through forests and meadows, but totally undynamic compared to the Bechler Meadow and Canyon. I had hiked the Shoshone Lake Trail before, so there was nothing new there, although the meadows and hot springs are definitely enjoyable sights. And I was so exhausted hiking down the Howard Eaton Trail into Old Faithful that the only way I would have liked it was if it was paved with cheeseburgers and Slurpees.
Speaking of food, I averted a narrow crisis when I arrived at Old Faithful. Most of the restaurants had already closed and it took some work to finally find dinner at the Old Faithful Lodge. My only other option was in the much-fancier Obsidian Dining Room at the Old Faithful Snow Lodge, and I just wouldn’t have fit in at such a classy joint until after a shower. After a delicious dinner, I checked into my cabin.
Looking back, I’d be tempted to hike as far as Twister Falls then retrace my steps, seeing the waterfalls and Bechler Meadows a second time, especially since I didn’t have time to see Lone Star Geyser or Shoshone Geyser Basin.
But would I do it again? Absolutely. It was an incredibly memorable day and a pretty cool achievement for a day-hiker. And how many people out there can say that they’ve hiked basically through an entire quadrant of Yellowstone in a day? I’ll definitely never forget my first Bechler adventure. Just after I got back, “Backpacker” magazine arrived in my PO box with a quick article about the Bechler area as a multi-day hike.
“A multi-day hike,” I thought. “Nah, that’s a day hike.”
Footnote: My plan had been to hike to Old Faithful on Friday, hang out with friends and explore the Upper Geyser Basin on Saturday, and hike back on Sunday. I was so sore that my Mom and Dad gave me a ride back to my car on Sunday instead. I just didn’t have another 30 miles in me.
Taylor Mountain
Posted by Jim Steele on January 2nd, 2010 filed in Around TownComment now »
One of the most underrated hikes in the Jackson area is the trip up Taylor Mountain, which lies right between Jackson and Victor, offers views of the Tetons, Gros Ventres, Salt River Range and Wyoming Range, and is less than four miles each way.
Granted, it’s not an easy trip — you’ll gain about 2,800 feet, topping out above 10,000 feet — but for this type of view, you usually have to spend a full day hiking. If you’re motivated, Taylor Mountain can be done in an afternoon.
Taylor Mountain is located just north of the highway between Victor and the summit of Teton Pass. The mountain dominates the skyline for part of the drive toward Victor from the top of the pass and is a prominent landmark in Victor. But in an area where summiting a mountain often means going up the Middle or Grand Teton, Taylor Mountain is often overlooked.
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The main trailhead is about three miles west of Teton Pass and about nine miles southeast of Victor along Wyoming Highway 22 at the large Coal Creek parking area.
The trail heads north/northeast for about 2.4 miles, gaining elevation most every step of the way. Just beyond the trailhead, you will cross into the Jedediah Smith Wilderness. You follow Coal Creek for much of the route, first through a lower canyon before switchbacking up a hill into the Coal Creek Meadows. Abundant wildflower displays can be seen in this area, and some groups camp in the meadows. Taylor Mountain dominates the view to the northwest.
At the north end of the meadows, you’ll reach a junction. Continue along the main path to go over Coal-Mesquite Divide after 0.2 miles and eventually connect to the Teton Crest Trail. The trail to the left leads to the summit of Taylor Mountain. The sign also references Moose Creek Road, which is a trail that starts near Victor.
You will quickly begin switchbacking out of the meadow. You’re generally outside of the forest, so the views will open up as you climb. As you get closer to the top, you will arrive at a junction with the faint trail that leads toward Victor. From here, the route to the summit of Taylor Mountain is indistinct and requires some boulder hopping. From the “junction” to the summit, you probably have 20 to 30 more minutes to go, although the views from the junction are already pretty good.
From the summit, you have a really interesting perspective from the south end of the Tetons. You can also see past Jackson Hole to the Gros Ventres. You also will enjoy views of the Salt River Range, Wyoming Range and the Teton Valley of Idaho. There just aren’t many places where you can stand at the crossroads of so many mountain ranges.
To get home, retrace your steps.
So if you don’t have a full day, or it’s a little early or late in the season, or you just want to enjoy a sometimes forgotten view, don’t forget about the Taylor Mountain Hike. I’ve done the Taylor Mountain hike as early in the season as the Fourth of July without problems.
Crypt Lake
Posted by Jim Steele on November 22nd, 2009 filed in Glacier-Waterton International Peace Park2 Comments »
To get to Crypt Lake in Alberta’s Waterton National Park, you ride a boat shuttle across the majestic Upper Waterton Lake, switchback up a trail that rises above the lake, hike up a canyon past a trio of waterfalls, climb an 8-foot ladder to shimmy through a tunnel, hold onto a metal rod that has been bolted into a steep cliff face, and then hike over a berm to a gorgeous lake that straddles the international boundary and does not have an outlet. Water instead seeps through the earth, forming a waterfall on the other side. I’ve never been on a hike that packs so much excitement into 5.4 miles (each way) and 2,214 feet of elevation gain!
Crypt Lake, photographed on September 27, 2009.
Waterton National Park is the Canadian arm of the Glacier-Waterton International Peace Park, which straddles the border between Montana and Alberta. You have to access this hike from the Waterton Townsite in Alberta. It’s an in-and-out hike, with no options to keep going or camp.
Your first step is to find the Shore Line Cruise Company dock and ticket booth, which are on the edge of Upper Waterton Lake in the Waterton Townsite, near the Bayshore Inn and Pat‘s Waterton general store. The Waterton Townsite is small and quaint and you won’t get lost. Buy a ticket for the Crypt Lake Shuttle. Plan on leaving somewhere around 9 or 10 a.m. and riding a shuttle back around 4 or 5 p.m. The schedules vary throughout the season. Depending on the exchange rate, you’ll spend $15 to $20 for the ticket. Link to the cruise company.
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The shuttle across Lake Waterton takes about 15 minutes. You’ll be left at a small dock at the Crypt Lake Trailhead. Be sure to know when your ride back leaves — if you miss the shuttle home, your options are very limited. There is an outhouse at the trailhead, but no water or other facilities.
The trail quickly starts to rise above Upper Waterton Lake, offering you a few choice views of the lake and the gorgeous, glacially carved mountains that surround it before heading southeast up a long canyon. You follow Hell-Roaring Creek most of the way. Near the trailhead, you’ll see a side trip to Hell-Roaring Falls that adds 30 to 60 minutes to your trip and rejoins the Crypt Lake trail later on. You probably want to save Hell-Roaring Falls for the trip back, if time permits.
As you climb, you’ll see a couple of other waterfalls. One is seen from a viewpoint just off the trail; the other is Crypt Falls, which is the only outlet from Crypt Lake. Neither waterfall was exactly gushing when I did this hike in late September, but I’m sure they are impressive earlier in the season. You’ll cross over a couple of streams and pass in and out of the forest. Be aware that you are in prime grizzly bear country and take reasonable precautions. Also, watch for mountain goats.
The ladder that you climb to get to the tunnel that leads to Crypt Lake. Photographed September 27, 2009.
After roughly four miles of climbing up the canyon, you will come to a small area with a horse hitching post and another outhouse. From here, you essentially cross the mouth of the canyon, shortly coming to an 8-foot ladder that is bolted into the rock and leads you to a 60-foot tunnel. The first two thirds of the tunnel are tall enough for most people to walk upright through, but you might have to scrunch through the final third. I’m almost six feet tall and made it through with no problems.
The tunnel that leads to Crypt Lake. Photographed September 27, 2009.
At the end of the tunnel, you will see a metal handrail that has also been bolted into the cliff. This short section of the trail passes through a steep, but not vertical, cliff face. A route has been blasted out of the cliff and the handrail provides additional support. I’m sure that some people choose to end their adventure here, within 15 minutes of the lake, but none of the 15 hikers in my group did.
The cliff face that stands between the Crypt Lake Tunnel and Crypt Lake. Photographed September 27, 2009.
You’ll hike over a berm, then arrive at the incredible Crypt Lake, about five miles from the trailhead. Crypt Lake is set in a cirque, surrounded by mountains on most sides and at the end of a hanging canyon. It has the glacial turquoise color that really makes you reach for your camera. More interestingly, there is not a stream that flows out of it. Instead, water seeps through the berm and forms Crypt Falls on the other side. The lake straddles the Canadian-United States border. Almost the entire lake is in Canada, but the south tip is in the USA. This might be your best chance to start an international backcountry incident.
A gorgeous reflection in Crypt Lake, seen from the south shore on September 27, 2009.
If you have time, a trail circles the lake, and the view from every shore is outstanding. Plan on 30 to 45 minutes to make it all the way around and be sure to keep an eye on the time. The shuttle won’t wait for you. To get home, retrace your steps.
I have done the vast majority of my hiking in Yellowstone and Grand Teton national parks. Yellowstone offers truly secluded backcountry and fascinating thermal features. Grand Teton offers some incredible peaks and incredible views. But the glaciers that carved Waterton and Glacier parks created a landscape that is every bit as unique — and every bit as stunning – as Yellowstone and the Tetons. This adventure is a great introduction to the mountains of Glacier and Waterton.
Note 1: A much longer route from northeast of the Waterton Townsite allows horses to access much of the trail.
Note 2: If you have another day, take the full Upper Waterton Lake cruise, which starts in Waterton Townsite and follows the shores of Lake Waterton into the United States and Goat Haunt, Montana. The lake, surrounded by glacially carved mountains and completely pristine, is absolutely gorgeous and the cruise is well with your time. It departs throughout the day. Depending on the exchange rate, plan on spending somewhere around $35. If you take the cruise, then hike to Crypt Lake the next day, you may be able to negotiate a frequent-floater discount.
Note 3: Be sure to ask about trail conditions before you buy your ticket. Snow can linger on this hike and the lake can remain frozen well into the summer.
Note 4: Dogs are allowed on backcountry trails in Waterton National Park, but you probably won’t be able to get Fido up the ladder and back to Crypt Lake.
Lake Solitude in October
Posted by Jim Steele on November 8th, 2009 filed in Grand Teton National ParkComment now »
Lake Solitude on October 17, 2009.
Every year, I am determined to drag out the summer as long as possible. Hiking through snow? No problem. Biking in a coat? Sure, if that’s what it takes. I’ve been to the Shoshone Geyser Basin on the first weekend of November. I’ve hiked up Signal Mountain on the first weekend in December. And last year I biked into Spalding Bay in mid-November. It’s always interesting to see what you find in the backcountry in the “shoulder season.”
This year’s first experiment was a trip to Lake Solitude in mid-October from the north end of Jenny Lake through Cascade Canyon. I hoped that Lake Solitude hadn’t frozen and wanted to get to the north shore and photograph the lake in front of the snow-capped Tetons.
The view of the snow-capped Tetons from upper Cascade Canyon.
There was much more snow than I bargained for. Cascade Canyon before the forks was manageable – any snow was bootpacked. But I ran into quite a bit of snow past the forks, and by the time I got to Lake Solitude, there was easily a foot and a half.
Lake Solitude on October 17, 2009.
The lake, however, was unfrozen and the setting was absolutely gorgeous. I had the view of the pristine, crisp lake, surrounded by snow in front of the snow-capped mountains, all to myself. If I would have known how much snow there was, I would have brought snowshoes so I could get to the north shore. It wasn’t a good idea to go any further, so I enjoyed the spectacular scene from the south shore.
I hope you’ll enjoy my pictures.
I’ve written a full description of the Paintbrush Divide – Lake Solitude loop here.
Heart Lake and Mt. Sheridan
Posted by Jim Steele on September 6th, 2009 filed in Yellowstone National ParkComment now »
It’s easy for me to call a hike one of my “favorites.” After all, I’m usually just thrilled to be in the backcountry. But I can say without a doubt that one of my “favorite” adventures of the summer was the trek to Heart Lake and the summit of Mt. Sheridan in the south end of Yellowstone National Park. This challenging, 23-mile hike offers a backcountry geyser basin, a gorgeous mountain lake, and 360-degree views from the summit.
This is truly a uniquely Yellowstone hike, thanks to the Heart Lake Geyser Basin, which you’ll pass through en route to Heart Lake. I love exploring backcountry thermal areas, where there are no throngs of tourists and boardwalks getting in the way. But the hike offers more than just geysers. Heart Lake is one of the coolest backcountry lakes in Yellowstone. And the view from Mt. Sheridan is just incredible. You see numerous mountain ranges and lakes and absolutely no cities. A fire lookout on the summit takes advantage of the sweeping views.
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The caveat is that this hike is extremely difficult, especially as a day hike. Round-trip, the distance to the summit is about 23 miles and the climb from Heart Lake to Mt. Sheridan gains almost 3,000 feet in just over three miles. There are numerous backcountry campsites along the shores of Heart Lake and many backpackers do the trip to the summit as a day hike.
The trailhead is near Lewis Lake along the South Entrance Road of Yellowstone, about five miles south of the Grant Village Junction and 14 miles north of the South Entrance. It’s marked as the Heart Lake trailhead and there is ample parking and an outhouse at the trailhead.
From the trailhead, you are 7.5 miles from Heart Lake. From there, it’s another four miles to the summit of Mt. Sheridan. The first 4.5 miles of this trail are underwhelming. You’ll wander through forests, including some that burned in 1988, and through some smaller meadows that often support prosperous mosquito populations. You’ll notice that the soil has a gritty volcanic composition. The first leg of the hike does offer a chance to see the changes as the forest grows back in the wake of the fires.
But after 4.5 miles, you’ll come to one of my favorite scenes on this hike, the view from the top of Witch Creek Hill. You’ll emerge from the forest to a point where you look out on Heart Lake, some 2 to 3 miles off in the distance, with a small thermal area right below you and a basin opening beyond. It’s the kind of setting that you’ll only find in Yellowstone.
You’ll see Factory Hill to the southwest. Thus far, Factory Hill has blocked your view of Mt. Sheridan, but as you descend to Heart Lake, the summit, with the tell-tale fire lookout, will come into view. The trail descends about 700 feet from Witch Creek Hill to Heart Lake, passing more hot pools along the way. A few minutes off the trail, you’ll see a thermal area that looks like a miniature version of Mammoth Hot Springs. A “social” trail leads there. As you get closer to the lake, you’ll pass through a meadow then a backcountry ranger station. Just after the ranger station, you reach Heart Lake.
The pristine Heart Lake is truly a gem. It’s one of the largest lakes in Yellowstone and the view of Mt. Sheridan rising above the west shore is outstanding. It’s popular among backpackers and fishermen and the lake itself makes a fine day hike. This is one of the most remote areas of Yellowstone, and you’ll enjoy the solitude. The lake is at 7,455 feet above sea level, a few hundred feet below the trailhead, 700 feet below Witch Creek Hill, and 2,850 feet below Mt. Sheridan.
At the junction, one trail leads to the north and eventually reaches the South Arm of Yellowstone Lake. The south trail follows the west shore of Heart Lake, leading deeper into the Yellowstone backcountry and connecting with trails to the Thorofare region and the South Entrance. Turn right (south) if the summit of Mt. Sheridan is your goal; you’re 0.7 miles from the junction with a spur trail that leads to the top.
This trail follows the shore of Heart Lake, eventually crossing the runoff channel from Rustic Geyser, which lies just a few minutes off the trail and is also worth exploring. After a few more minutes, you’ll see a couple of the Heart Lake campsites. The junction with the trail to the summit is just after the second campsite.
From here, be prepared for some pain, agony, sweat and tears. The trail to the summit gains almost 3,000 feet over somewhere between 3.3 and 3.9 miles (my map doesn’t agree with the sign). The only redeeming qualities are that the views just keep getting better the higher you climb and that the elevation gain is reasonably evenly spread throughout the trail. Note that you’re walking primarily through burned forest and water is not available on the trail. For most of the climb, you’ll be looking to the north and east, seeing Heart Lake and Yellowstone Lake. But as you get closer to the summit, you’ll cross to the west side of the ridge and be treated with views south to the Tetons.
And when you make it to the top, all of the heartache will be worth it. You’ll be able to see all of Heart Lake, much of Yellowstone Lake, part of Shoshone Lake, and numerous smaller lakes. You’ll see the Tetons, Huckleberry Mountain, the Absaroka Range, and many of the other mountains of Yellowstone. The Pitchstone Plateau is visible to the west. And you won’t see a single city. In fact, with the exception of the patrol cabins at Heart Lake and the fire lookout, it’s tough to make out much evidence of development at all, which is one of the most refreshing aspects of this hike. You’ll feel like you’re deep in the wilderness, taking in a scene that is virtually unchanged from 100 years ago.
The fire lookout is an interesting old building. Until recently, a National Park Service employee spent a couple of months up here each summer, watching for fires in conjunction with lookouts on Mt. Holmes and Mt. Washburn. But the tower has been unstaffed the past couple of summers, its services largely unnecessary thanks to satellite monitoring. The building has been boarded up both times I’ve been at the summit. It’s interesting to think about what spending a summer in this lookout would be like. The sunrises and sunsets would be fantastic and waking up to the 360-degree view every day would be outstanding.
An outhouse is located at the south end of the summit. Someone with a sense of humor has installed a hook to prop the door open with the following instructions: “For full effect, latch door open.” The view from the outhouse, 3,000 feet above the surrounding terrain, is fantastic and the outhouse is positioned so that the effect is maximized when the door is open. A helpful person has also left a toilet plunger in the outhouse, just in case the pipes get clogged. There’s nothing like backcountry humor …
To get back, retrace your steps. If you’re doing everything as a day hike, keep a close watch on the time, as you have little to spare and you may want a few minutes to explore the geyser basin and need to leave extra time to make the 700-foot climb out of the Heart Lake basin. If you’re camping at Heart Lake, you’ll be glad to have more time to enjoy the truly incredible view.
Notes: The Heart Lake campsites are popular and the Park Service sometimes limits stay lengths. There are no campsites between the trailhead and Heart Lake. … Snow can linger on the mountain well into August and you probably wouldn’t have much like hiking up the mountain until well into July. … The trail passes through the Heart Lake Bear Management Area and could be closed in June. … And well-deserved pizza and cheeseburgers are available in Grant Village, 10 minutes north of the trailhead, after the hike.
Link: Heart Lake Trail, from Daryl Hunter’s Greater Yellowstone Resource Guide. Daryl has a much better discussion of the ecology of this area than I could ever hope to write.
Mt. Holmes
Posted by Jim Steele on August 10th, 2009 filed in Yellowstone National ParkComment now »
There are three fire lookouts in Yellowstone National Park, on Mount Washburn in the northeast corner of the park, Mt. Sheridan in the southern section, and Mt. Holmes in the northwest region. The same qualities that make these mountains good fire lookouts also make them spectacular day hikes, with 360-degree views that are tough to beat. I hiked up Mt. Holmes a few weeks ago, thoroughly enjoying the trip and wishing that I could spend the whole summer in the small fire lookout at the summit.
What incredible sunrises and sunsets you’d see from your vantage point on top of the world.
Mt. Holmes can be done as a long day hike or as an overnight adventure. The elevation gain is significant — about 3,000 feet over 10 miles — so be prepared for a grueling day. The majority of the elevation gain is packed into the final third of the hike.
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But when you get to the summit, you’ll take in sweeping views of Electric Peak to the north, Hebgen Lake to the west, the Tetons on the far southern horizon on a clear day, and Mt. Washburn to the east. I hope you’ll agree that the trip was worth every step.
The trailhead is between Norris Junction and Mammoth Hot Springs on Yellowstone’s Grand Loop Road, roughly nine miles north of Norris Junction and a mile north of the Obsidian Cliff. There is a small parking lot, but no other trailhead facilities. The trail quickly crosses a meadow then turns to the north after reaching the base of a hill. You’ll follow a set of power lines for less than a mile until you ford Winter Creek. The ford is fairly modest, even in early July, and you may be able to cross on fallen logs.
From here, you begin to head west, following Winter Creek for a few miles. The majority of the forests you‘ll pass through have burned, so expect plenty of fallen trees and little cover. Most of this hike is, candidly, forgettable, although the views of the nearby mountains begin to open up as you get closer to Mt. Holmes and the open terrain makes wildflower displays a possibility. After 2.5 miles, you come to a junction with a trail to Grizzly Lake. Stay right, continuing to follow the creek.
After another 3.1 miles, you’ll come to a meadow and a couple of backcountry campsites. They are the only campsites along this trail and look like they would be a thoroughly pleasant place to camp, regardless of the fires that charred many of the nearby forests. The trail passes by a patrol cabin and the intersection with the Trilobite Lake Trail. This is the last junction you will pass; you are 5.2 miles from the summit.
Now you will begin to gain elevation in earnest. The trail climbs above the meadow, passes south of Mount Holmes, and climbs to a saddle southeast of the summit. From here, you have about one mile and about 1,000 feet of elevation gain between you and the top. The trail crosses some scree fields, switchbacks a couple of times, and finally comes to the top, where you’ll see the fire lookout, a very primitive outhouse, and a United States Geologic Survey marker.
Bring your binoculars and leave yourself plenty of time, because you’re going to be treated to an incredible view. You’ll be able to trace much of your route from the top. Far to the south, you can see the Tetons on a clear day. Closer, Norris Geyser Basin is easy to pick out as a large white spot among the forests. To the west, you’ll see Hebgen Lake. To the north, Electric Peak, named for its propensity to attract lightning, dominates the skyline. East of Electric Peak, Bunsen Peak looks like a molehill, which puts everything in perspective because Bunsen Peak rises about 1,500 feet from the surrounding terrain. And to the east, you see Mt. Washburn, including the outline of its own fire lookout tower, and the Absaroka Range behind it.
In years past, the National Park Service has staffed the fire lookout, but for the first time in recent memory, no one is manning the tower this summer. Satellites have largely made the job unnecessary. There was no one at the Mt. Sheridan tower last summer, although the Mt. Washburn tower is still being staffed.
To get back, retrace your steps. Keep an eye on the weather, as afternoon thunderstorms can develop and the summit is exposed.
I did this hike in mid-July and only had to cross a few minor patches of snow. I wouldn’t have wanted to do this hike much earlier than I did, as a little bit of snow over the past couple of miles would have made the hike unsafe. Also, there was a prosperous local mosquito population along Winter Creek, so be sure to bring bug spray.
Note that if you are planning to try this hike in Summer 2009, delays are possible along the road between Norris Junction and Madison Junction, which is under construction. That road will close for the season in mid-August, so you may have to detour through Canyon Village.
Union Falls
Posted by Jim Steele on August 1st, 2009 filed in Yellowstone National Park4 Comments »
I’m not going to mince words – the hike to Union Falls and the nearby Scout Pool in southern Yellowstone National Park is one of my all-time favorites. The waterfall, a 265-foot behemoth, is the second-largest in the park. The nearby geothermally heated Scout Pool is a refreshing place for a dip after a long hike. And the location, deep in the Yellowstone backcountry, offers plenty of solitude (although, beware of a nearby Boy Scout camp).
Union Falls is formed by the confluence of two creeks. As the waters cascade down a rock face, they intermingle, creating the unified waterfall. And not only is Union Falls an incredible 265 feet tall, it seems every bit as wide. The trip to this waterfall is worth every mile, especially since the trail ends at a perfect vantage point and you have a decent chance at seeing a rainbow in the mist from the falls. The sight and sound of the waterfall, deep in the wilderness of Yellowstone, make for one of Yellowstone’s best hikes.
The hike to Union Falls is about 7.5 miles each way. The distance makes the hike moderately difficult, but the terrain is easy to navigate and elevation gain is limited. You’ll gain 600 feet climbing a ridge about halfway through the hike back, but the trail is otherwise fairly flat. Getting to the trailhead is more challenging. There are three primary trailheads. Each is accessed from the Grassy Lake Road, which is the winding, unpaved, sometimes badly rutted and remote road that links Flagg Ranch with Ashton, Idaho. Flagg Ranch is just a small lodge and campround, and Ashton is – at best – a one-horse town, so you can imagine the condition of a road that links the two.
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This article will describe the trail from the base of Grassy Lake Dam, which is the most convenient route if you’re coming from Yellowstone or Jackson. To get to the trailhead, drive 10 miles west of Flagg Ranch along Grassy Lake Road, starting in the John D. Rockefeller Memorial Parkway, then crossing into the Targhee National Forest. Note that this road is usually passable in a car, although you would be happier in a high-clearance vehicle. Note also that the road may be closed into June. After 10 miles, you come to Grassy Lake Dam; just before the reservoir, turn right on a road that leads to a parking area below the dam. The Mountain Ash Creek trailhead is in the northwest corner near the spillway.
The trail starts just south of Yellowstone National Park; a few minutes into the hike, you will cross the park boundary, which is marked with a sign. From here, you wander through a generally forgettable forest for a mile or so until you start to parallel the Falls River, which you will soon ford. The crossing is fairly long and the river can be swift, so be careful. The water can be halfway up your thigh in mid-July, but the crossing gradually gets easier throughout the summer. I wouldn’t try the ford before July. If possible, bring a separate set of shoes, as the long crossing, chilly waters and sharp rocks are an unpleasant combination.
After the ford, you’ll quickly begin to climb above the Falls River and come to a junction with the Pitchstone Plateau trail, which eventually leads to the Phantom Fumarole and the South Entrance Road south of Lewis Lake. A backcountry campsite is also nearby. From here, it’s four miles to the next junction and six miles to the waterfall. Bear left to stay on the Mountain Ash Creek trail and you’ll continue to wander through another fairly forgettable section of forest. To the north, you’ll see the Pitchstone Plateau. Eventually, you’ll cross a ridge that offers a cool view into the south end of Yellowstone and of the Birch Hills. This area also has an interesting history. According to Tom Carter’s book “Day Hiking Yellowstone,” “You are actually following an old wagon road built in the 1880s by the Mormons to connect Marysville, Idaho, with Jackson Hole. Careful observers can still see wagon ruts in the stone at various places.”
From the divide, you descend to Proposition Creek, which is usually easy to cross on fallen logs. This section of the trail also seems to be among the best for spotting wildflowers. Less than a mile after Proposition Creek, the Mountain Ash Creek trail intersects with the Union Falls trail. Turn right onto the Union Falls trail; you’re two miles from the waterfall. The Mountain Ash Creek trail could eventually lead you to Cave Falls and the Bechler area of southwestern Yellowstone.
This section of trail parallels the serene Mountain Ash Creek. After a half mile, you come to a point where a smaller creek flows into Mountain Ash Creek. Upstream, the smaller creek flows over a small waterfall to create Scout Pool. Mountain Ash Creek, meanwhile, flows over Union Falls upstream. You can ford Mountain Ash Creek here if you’re interested, but there is a small footbridge just a minute upstream. Just beyond the footbridge is one of the two Union Falls campsites.
From the crossing, you’re about 1.5 miles from Union Falls. A few minutes up the trail, you’ll pass the turnoff to the second campsite, which is a few minutes’ walk off the trail on the shores of the smaller creek. It’s a low-impact campsite so no fires are allowed. You’ll also pass the Union Falls “Ranger Station,” which is a small A-frame building that is presumably used for the occasional backcountry patrol, but has always been boarded up when I’ve walked by.
About a mile from the campsites, you’ll pass a horse hitching post and see an unmarked trail that heads to the left (north) behind the hitching area. This trail leads to the geothermally heated, and very refreshing, Scout Pool (sometimes called Ouzel Pool). Bear right to go to Union Falls – it’s only another half mile. As you walk the final half mile, you can sometimes see a quick glimpse of the waterfall through the forest. As you get closer to the overlook, you’ll start to hear its roar. And then you’ll come around a corner and the gorgeous waterfall will be on full display. I always plan to spend plenty of time here, taking pictures and soaking in the gorgeous sight. It’s nature at its best.
From the main viewing area, you will see a steep, unofficial trail that leads to the base of the falls. The spray from Union Falls makes this area very muddy and very slippery. Unless you’re really confident, I’d skip the trip to the base of the falls, although the view is gorgeous.
After you’ve seen Union Falls, take the side trip to the Scout Pool. A small creek that is geothermally heated upstream flows over a small waterfall, creating a very refreshing swimming hole — and warm water for the campsite downstream. The temperature seems to fluctuate a little bit, but it’s usually somewhere between a swimming pool and a hot tub. There is a spot where you can perch yourself on a rock under the waterfall and let the waters tumble over your shoulders, which probably deserve the massage after carrying your backpack. Note, of course, that the waters move quickly and the pool is fairly deep, so be careful.
From here, retrace your steps to get home. Be aware that the climb up from Proposition Creek is much more challenging on the way back, as you will quickly gain about 600 feet of elevation. Also, note that the junction after the Falls Creek ford can be confusing, so be sure to take the correct trail. If you’re following the route I have described, you need to take the trail to the left; the trail to the right leads to the Cascade Creek trailhead.
Union Falls notebook
First, this section of Yellowstone gets a lot of snow and is an incredible breeding ground for mosquitoes. They aren’t generally too bad during the day, but in the evenings they can be quite the nuisance, particularly through July. The mosquitoes naturally die out throughout the summer and aren’t a problem by September. The tradeoff, of course, is that there is less water flowing over the waterfall.
Second, bears love this area of Yellowstone, so take the normal bear precautions.
Third, the elevation for this hike generally hovers within a few hundred feet of 7,000 feet, which makes it a reasonable later-season hike. I’ve done the hike well into September without any problems. And even though there isn’t as much water cascading down Union Falls, it is still gorgeous.
Fourth, this trail is a popular horse route, so don’t be surprised to see a few of our equestrian friends. Because it is in Yellowstone, dogs and mountain bikes are not allowed.
The other trail options
The Cascade Creek trailhead is located just a couple of miles west of Grassy Lake Reservoir on Grassy Lake Road. It intersects with the trail I described above just before the Falls River ford. This trail has the advantage of being a couple miles closer for people coming from Eastern Idaho but requires an additional minor ford of Cascade Creek. If you take this trail, you should consider taking the spur trail to Terrace Falls, which is 1.4 miles northwest of the Cascade Creek ford. At Terrace Falls, the Falls River passes through a gorgeous series of cascades.
A third trailhead is located further west along Grassy Lake Road. It joins the route I have described two miles from Union Falls at the junction of the Mountain Ash Creek and Union Falls trails. A spur road leads from Grassy Lake Road to the trailhead, and a high clearance vehicle is definitely required for the spur road. This trail passes Fish Lake less than a mile from the trailhead. Note that the ford of the Falls River will be marginally tougher because you will be further downstream.
I’ve taken all three trails and really don’t have a strong preference. If I were coming from Idaho in a high-clearance vehicle, I’d probably take the Fish Lake trail.
Note: This is a complete rewrite of an article that I posted in May 2008.
Phelps Lake
Posted by Jim Steele on June 18th, 2009 filed in Grand Teton National ParkComment now »
Phelps Lake is a gorgeous lake – the sixth largest in Grand Teton National Park – and is set right at the base of the Teton Range, left behind by the glacier that formed Death Canyon. It offers lots of options for someone who is looking to get outside – and the choices got even better in late 2007 with the opening of the Laurance S. Rockefeller Preserve.
Mr. Rockefeller, through his famous family, owned the JY Ranch, which was set at the south end of Phelps Lake and included much of the shoreline. The heart of the ranch was donated to Grand Teton National Park in 2001. In 2007, the Laurance S. Rockefeller Preserve opened with an extensive trail system in place, finally giving everyone access to the entirety of Phelps Lake.
As part of the terms of the donation, Mr. Rockefeller wanted the former JY Ranch to be a place where people could develop a deeper connection with the land. The new trail system was developed with that goal in mind – there are places to walk right up to a small waterfall, walk through a wetland, and sit on benches on a bridge over Lake Creek, Phelps’ outlet. Pamphlets note that the primary trail starts in the sagebrush zone, passes through forests, and then comes to the lake, with some wetland trails also available. If you’ve got guests in town that want to get a sense of what the Tetons are all about, without, for example, hiking up the Middle Teton, this would be an excellent place to start.
Mr. Rockefeller’s gift was exceptionally generous – I’ve hiked around Phelps Lake many times and enjoyed every trip. At the same time that I note his contribution, I also want to thank John D. Rockefeller Jr., who was responsible for the formation of Grand Teton National Park. The entire park could be called the John D. Rockefeller Jr. Preserve.
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(Note: The Google map above does not show the LSR trails.)
Phelps Lake sits at 6,633 feet above sea level, so the elevation gain to the lake is modest. There are two main access points: first, via the LSR Preserve trailhead, which is north of Teton Village. Drive up Highway 390 through Teton Village, pass the Granite Canyon Entrance Station, and pass the Granite Canyon Trailhead; the LSR Preserve will be on your right and is well marked. Park in the modest parking lot and follow the short trail to the visitor center. You can also drive south from Moose along the Moose-Wilson Road.
Second, there is a trailhead at the end of the Whitegrass Ranch Road. This road junctions with the Moose-Wilson Road three miles south of Moose. Drive down the road (only a portion is paved) for just over 1.5 miles to the parking lot at the Death Canyon Trailhead. Note that this road is badly rutted. It is possible, but definitely not ideal, to get over it in a non-high-clearance car. There are some small parking lots along the way, so you can stop and walk the rest of the way if the road gets too treacherous.
The trail system is well marked and there are numerous options, so I’m not going to give step-by-step directions here. But I will offer lots of ideas for how to enjoy this area of the park.
Hike the Lake Creek – Woodland Trail Loop: This excursion starts at the LSR Preserve visitor center, combining the Lake Creek Trail and the Woodland Trail in a 2.9-mile loop. You’ll follow Lake Creek part of the way, meandering through the forest, crossing the Moose-Wilson Road, passing some enormous glacial boulders, and coming to the south shore of Phelps Lake. You can do the loop in either direction. Elevation gain is limited to a few hundred feet, so this is an ideal family outing. If you do this trail, take the time to read the pamphlet available at the trailhead – it gives you a much greater appreciation of the various environments you’re walking through.
Walk to the Phelps Lake Overlook and the lake via the Valley Trail: This route was accessible even prior to the establishment of the LSR Preserve. Start at the Death Canyon Trailhead at the end of the Whitegrass Ranch Road. After a tenth of a mile, you intersect with the Valley Trail. Turn left and continue on to the Phelps Lake Overlook. You actually start at an elevation higher than Phelps then climb about 400 feet to the overlook above the north end of the lake. This gives you a really cool view of Phelps, the valley beyond, and the Gros Ventres. The hike to the overlook is just short of a mile. From the overlook, you can descend another mile to the lake.
Walk the Phelps Lake loop: Access Phelps via either the Valley Trail or the Preserve trails, and then loop around the lake. The trail itself is roughly four miles, which does not include the distance to get to the lake. The views around Phelps Lake are incredible. From the south shore, you see the lake set against the Tetons. From the north shore, you see the lake set against the Gros Ventres. Be sure to take the short spur trail to Huckleberry Point, which juts into the lake from the southwest shore and gives you a great perspective on the lake and the Tetons. Speaking of huckleberries …
Go huckleberry hunting: Phelps Lake grows a bumper crop of huckleberries, so watch for a tasty snack, particularly along the south shore and near Huckleberry Point later in the summer. Be sure you know what you’re looking for. And bear in mind that bears like huckleberries too.
Cross country ski or snowshoe: Phelps Lake is also a favorite cross-country skiing or snowshoeing destination. The Moose-Wilson Road is closed in winter from the Granite Canyon trailhead to the junction with the Whitegrass Ranch Road, so you’ll have a longer journey than in the summertime. But the sight of the lake set against the Tetons makes it worth the trip. I like to park at the Granite Canyon trailhead, ski up the Moose-Wilson Road for about a mile to the old JY Ranch Road, and then follow the old JY Ranch Road for less than a mile to the south shore of Phelps Lake.
Hike into Death Canyon: If you want a longer adventure, the possibilities are endless. Through Death Canyon, you can eventually access the Teton Crest Trail or can take the challenging – but very rewarding – hike up Static Peak. Even just hiking into the narrow, long, unforgettable Death Canyon is worth your time. Hiking up Open Canyon or doing the Open Canyon – Granite Canyon loop are also possibilities. Note that all of these are full-day – at least – adventures.
Other options: There are a few backcountry campsites located near the north end of Phelps Lake. … Go fishing … Or hike the Boulder Ridge Trail and Aspen Ridge Trail in the LSR Preserve.
Phelps Lake’s low elevation makes it accessible for much of the year. I’ve hiked to the lake as early as May and as late as mid-November. Its proximity to Jackson makes it a great choice for an after-work hike. And the area offers numerous trails, giving you plenty of options. Don’t forget your camera – this is one of the most photogenic lakes around.
Links: Grand Teton National Park lakeshore hikes brochure (PDF)
Grand Teton National Park day hikes brochure (PDF)
The Cache Creek / Game Creek Loop
Posted by Jim Steele on June 6th, 2009 filed in Gros Ventres, Mountain BikingComment now »
I spend most of my summer outdoors time hiking, but I’m no one-trick pony. I’ve also been known to mountain bike. One of my favorite trails is the Cache Creek / Game Creek loop southeast of Jackson.
But before I write another word, a major caveat. I really don’t know what I’m doing on a mountain bike. Any attempt on my part to do “technical” biking would lead to a painful death, possibly due to being impaled by handlebars. So if you’re looking for tips on a death-defying Gary Fisher-esque ride, you should probably find another Web site.
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By mountain biking standards, The Cache / Game route is not exceptionally difficult – you gain about 1,000 feet climbing from the Cache Creek trailhead to the top of a divide above the Game Creek drainage. From there, it’s all downhill until you meet the highway five miles south of Jackson. If you ride the bike path back into town, completing the full loop, it’s about 20 miles. If you leave one car at the Cache Creek trailhead and the other at the Game Creek trailhead, it’s half that.
This loop has two things to offer. First, the scenery is outstanding. You follow Cache Creek for about four miles through a canyon, and this makes for a scenic trip. As you get closer to a bridge over Cache Creek, you’ll see a great view of Cache Peak. At the top of the Cache / Game divide, you’ll get a great view of an unnamed peak and could take in an impressive wildflower display. The sweeping views coming down Game Creek are also outstanding. And along some of the ridges above Game Creek, you’ll see some interesting rock formations. You’ll ride above some marshy areas along Game Creek where you have a decent chance to see ungulates.
Second, the ride down Game Creek is exhilarating. It’s downhill the entire way, so you’ll get a chance to rest after the gradual climb up Cache Creek. It’s not a technical ride, but you do have to watch for roots, rocks and other obstacles. Don’t get going faster than you’re comfortable with – there are plenty of switchbacks, blind corners, and other trail users. I have chest-planted twice on this trail after not heeding the above advice.
You can do Cache / Game in either direction. It’s more fun to ride down Game, so I’ll describe the trail going clockwise. To start, make your way to the Cache Creek trailhead, which is in the southeast corner of Jackson and offers a large parking area. Pick your favorite east-west street (Broadway or Hansen Avenue are good candidates), follow it to Redmond Street on the east end of town, and then follow Redmond south to Cache Creek Road. Turn left and follow Cache Creek Road as it eventually turns into a dirt road and climbs modestly en route to the trailhead.
At the trailhead, you have a couple of options. You can ride up the two-track main trail known as the “Sidewalk,” which can sometimes be heavily congested, or take the single-track Putt-Putt trail, which runs parallel to the north for a while before rejoining the two-track. The two-track begins at a gate just east of the parking area.
As you follow Cache Creek for about four miles, you’ll climb gradually. After a few minutes, you’ll pass the area where the Bar T-5 hosts its covered wagon cookout. Next you pass Salt Lick Draw and Gin Pole Draw. This is a popular multi-use trail, so watch for walkers, dogs and horses – always yield to horseback riders. Also, bears are not uncommon. You’re riding through a canyon under the Gros Ventres the whole way, and as you get closer to the junction, the views of Cache Peak will start to open up.
After almost four miles and roughly 800 feet of elevation gain, you’ll come to a bridge over Cache Creek. The Cache Creek trail continues on, passing the former Noker Mine and eventually leading to Granite Hot Springs (note that a portion of that trail passes through a wilderness area where bicycling is not permitted). After you cross the bridge, you’ll begin the toughest climb on a single-track, quickly gaining about 250 feet to the Game Creek / Cache Creek divide. I always have to walk my bike up part of this section.
From the top, you’ll start to enjoy some sweeping views of Game Creek. The trail will be a single-track for several miles and there is some switchbacking as you begin your descent. Control your speed and enjoy the ride! You’ll pass a junction with the West Game Creek Trail over a small bridge heading north. As you get closer to the trailhead, the trail becomes a double-track again. Watch for other trail users, including horseback riders and walkers. This is the area where Paul DeBoer, who used to live above Game Creek, got into various tiffs with trail users. While DeBoer’s vigilante patrols are over, this remains a heavily used area. At the Game Creek trailhead, you join the paved Game Creek Road at a big bend; follow Game Creek Road downward for a mile to U.S. Highway 191/89/26.
A paved, separate bike trail parallels the highway to the west; you’re about five miles south of High School Road and will climb up and down a few modest hills as you return to town, gaining a modest amount of elevation. You’ll pass a Phillips 66 station that offers your first chance to buy a snack or a beverage since you left town. Once you get back into town, follow city streets to wherever you left your car. All told, it’s about a 20-mile loop.
This loop seems to offer it all: a decent workout, great views, wildflowers, wildlife, proximity to town, and an exhilarating descent. And, of course, there is no reason that all or parts of this loop couldn’t be enjoyed as a hike. Enjoy!
Site News and Notes
Posted by Jim Steele on May 27th, 2009 filed in NewsComment now »
A few notes about The Mountain Goat …
Winter’s finally over! I’ve already been hiking and biking plenty of times and am stoked for the summer. I’ve got plenty of trips in mind: Mount Woodring, Turquoise Lake, the Pitchstone Plateau traverse and Mount Holmes are on my list, with a backpacking trip to the Thorofare region of Yellowstone also a possibility. I hope to have plenty of new subject matter for The Mountain Goat as the summer passes.
One thing that has frustrated me so far is that I haven’t been able to note trail updates on the fly. By the time I get an article written, it has sometimes been several weeks since I’ve done the hike. The fresh batch of huckleberries or cool wildflower show that I want to tip everyone off to could be over. I’ve added a Twitter feed so that I can do updates right after — or during — a hike. Note that this won’t be your normal Twitter feed. I’m not going to tell you about a trip to Safeway or what I had for lunch. This Twitter feed is for outdoor news, notes and reflections only. I’ve added the feed to the main MountainGoat.net homepage. I’ll do some updates from the trail via my Treo — my most recent Tweet was posted at Hermitage Point.
The Twitter feed opens up some new possibilities. If you have something to report to your fellow hikers — a trail that just became passable, for example, send me an email so I can post a Tweet.
And please don’t hesitate to add comments to my articles. I really want this site to become more of a forum. If you have a tip about one of the trails I’ve written about or just want to reflect on your hike, please add your two cents. I’ve required registration because I was getting too many spammy comments, but don’t hesitate to register and weigh in. I would even welcome guest articles.
Don’t miss my new gallery: gallery.themountaingoat.net. And watch for my next article on mountain biking the Cache Creek / Game Creek Loop.